May 2023
I was not sure what to expect in South Dakota. As I drove in from the south through the Rosebud Indian Reservation on my way to Badlands National Park, the poverty was apparent in the small commercial areas with shuttered buildings interspersed among the truly striking green, green grass that I understand covers mostly unsuitable soil devoid of minerals and animals. I continued east through the vast open empty space of Lakota Pine Ridge Reservation, one of the largest and the poorest reservation in the United States. These reservations were both part of the Great Sioux Reservation which at one point included the Black Hills which in 1968 were specifically exempted by treaty from all white settlement forever as the Lakota believe these hills to be sacred. But forever lasted about four years as settlers moved in first for timber harvesting and then following the discovery by George Custer and crew of gold in 1874. A war ensued, the government took over the Black Hills and in U.S. fashion, Congress passed an act in to sell the mineral rich Black Hills for white settlement. The Lakota were relocated to unwanted land and well, history takes over the present. And while the Badlands are interesting, I understand why the Lakota found the Black Hills sacred. Wow, the otherworldly beauty! Even with all the harvesting and past mining. This is an area where I could see myself returning.
BADLANDS. Not sure I would come here again. It was interesting to see and hike around but having been to Zion, Cedar Breaks, and Bryce, found it a bit underwhelming. I did meet a quirky former surfer from Ventura who now called South Dakota his home and gave me some advice on where to stay. I also had a great conversation with a physical therapist from Nebraska while hiking here who was climbing up the sketchy ladder with me despite having numerous heart attacks.
BLACK HILLS & CUSTER STATE PARK. This place alone made the trip worth it. The area is just so beautiful. I stayed in Custer and really found myself fond of the town. The Econo Lodge is no frills but it was quiet and clean and inexpensive and walking distance to things though I drove given the lightning storms that seemed to never end. They have a great homemade ice cream place in town and I was surprised to learn my waiter where I stopped for a beer, was from Mexico and comes to Custer during the summer to work which seems a long way from home. Keystone is another option for staying but found it a bit more touristy and kitchy but probably great for kids. But the highlight is Custer State Park and the reason to be here with breathtaking hiking and scenery. There are also caves you can tour in the national park but I arrived too late in the day to see them.
STURGIS. I did not stay in Sturgis but I did drive around the back roads and found that the entire area is devoted to the ten day motorcycle rally occurring here each year. Entire hotels and camps existing simply for the event, all idle and deserted when I drove through.