March 2023
Driving into southern Virginia from North Carolina, I started seeing no trespassing signs and an abundance of political signs, many for a Republican delegate – some others for Trump. I saw many Trump Nation banners and confederate flags, especially in the western part of Virginia. Human contributions to landscape vary depending upon one’s point of entry into a state or city and this one, crossing into Roanoke where I intended to spend the night, provided a lengthy display of trailers and small prefab homes, an increase in roadside trash, and then the periodic interspersing of very, very large estate homes on large rolling beautifully landscaped lawns. It seems that this is one of the few areas lacking wealth in Virginia as the state is generally quite wealthy. Currently, only nine states in the U.S. have a lower poverty rate. Contrast that with its neighbor, West Virginia which falls on the opposite spectrum, having the fourth highest poverty rates in the country. This becomes apparent crossing in and out of West Virginia further north where the wealth difference between the two states is palpable, more of that in my West Virginia post, but suffice it to say you move from large green rolling ranches with pristine large homes in Virginia to a bit more rugged territory with peeling paint, trailers and prefab homes when you leave. On an upbeat note, the landscape of much of Virginia is beautiful, most of the roads are smooth and devoid of potholes, and of course there is a lot of history (most of which I visited some years earlier on various trips along the east coast). Oh, and driving south on the 220 which has a speed limit of 55mph, I saw a horse drawn buggy (the horse was bucking and seemed none to happy) with a lone Amish woman at the reins and then soon saw a group of smiling girls in Amish dress walking along the same road followed by a family ambling along with a baby carriage. Despite the pretty hills and large homes I did not find people to be very friendly in general so I would not rush back.
ROANOKE/SALEM AND MCAFEE KNOB TRAIL. Driving through Roanoke, I did not get that warm and fuzzy feeling, including in the downtown area, though the bars among the stone buildings looked very hip. I ended up instead staying at a La Quinta Inn in Salem (clean and inexpensive) down the road from the hike I had planned in the morning, McAfee’s Knob. Salem is a non-descript suburb with lots of chain restaurants. I found a decent Mexican place that was not part of chain for my late night dinner. The highlight here was the McAfee’s Knob hike via the Appalachian Trail, a 7.8 mile out and back hike with a bit over 1,800 elevation gain. The views at the top were spectacular and the trail quite lovely.
WARM SPRINGS. I have a bit of regret in not staying here for the night at a very charming inn as would have been a much nicer stay than being on the side of the highway in Dawson, WV and only a bit more expensive. The area is pretty, rolling hills and seemed very grown up (for me boring) though not a bad place if you are looking to chill out and sit in some springs.
HARRISONBURG. The best thing here was Broad Porch Coffee, that and it is close to Shenandoah National Park so good for an overnight stay when like me, you are afraid to camp with bears coming out of hibernation. The city itself was not overly inviting and lacked color. Lots and lots of grayish white buildings everywhere which I found a bit depressing.
SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK. Best to come here once the leaves fill in I think. I did get take a nice hike which lead to Dark Hollow Falls, a pretty cool spot (and crowded since it can also be accessed from a nearby parking lot instead of via a trail the way I went). I don’t think the landscape compares to the west coast national parks, but is pretty in its own right.
ARLINGTON. I did not go on this trip, but have gone several times in the past and it is a fun place to bar hop and also ride to by bike from D.C.
WILLIAMSBURG. Another spot I skipped this go around but fun to go to at least once to watch the various reenactments and period outfits.