March 2023 (with some January 2013 thrown in)
I first traveled through Georgia a bit over ten years ago, hitting Atlanta, Macon and Savannah. This time I wanted to try somewhere new so started with the south barrier islands and then headed northwest for the mountains with a quick stop in Savannah again. My travels have brought home that I really need the mountains, their beauty and changing landscape – flat lands put me into a trance and after a while get me down. One of the first things I noticed driving into Georgia were that instead of cows on the side of the highway, there were random pigs feeding on the grass. There are also pockets of smoke as you drive along and I worried there were forest fires but turns out they do controlled burns – probably easier here than California with all the push back from residents, and it is less populated. There was also a lot of logging with swaths of cut trees. The other thing I noticed were small towns, some with these beautifully crafted Victorian homes in various stages of disrepair (no money to restore) interspersed among largely abandoned and boarded up businesses but in the middle of it all there would be at least one, often more, church in pristine condition. This was what could be seen along the main through roads which, other than St. Charles Street in New Orleans, is generally not where the wealthier residents live. They rarely cut highways and byways through wealthy neighborhoods, and to the extent there is a busy road, you can distinguish the area wealth by the inverse posted speed limit (have seen it as low as 15 in the nicest of areas before jumping back up to 45 or 55mph). This phenomenon is not limited to Georgia, it just sort of fit into this stream of thought.
SAVANNAH. I originally spent several days here ten years ago and took a stroll again on this latest trip. The place is still beautiful with amazing trees, stunning architecture, and loads of history. Though my memories are still tied to some things said to me during my original time here which still confound me, though to be fair, one was made by a man visiting from Alabama who was afraid to go to San Francisco as he hated the thought of men making out everywhere including in all the restaurants while he dined. Hell, I would be uncomfortable with any couple, gay or straight, making out next to me at dinner and so far in San Francisco that has not happened. Anyway this, and a statement by a local which was much darker and profoundly troubling, stuck with me over the years. Savannah really is an aesthetically beautiful place and definitely worth a visit.
MACON AND AUGUSTA. These were other cities part of my original 2013 tour. I only made it here for day trips. Both had a cool downtown and some beautiful churches.
ATLANTA. The last part of my original 2013 journey. I was introduced by a friend to Frank who played tour guide though when asked what was worth seeing he said nothing. He was only partially wrong. There are a few cool neighborhoods and the large and pretty Piedmont Park. You could look at a tour guide book to see what is current. Vortex was a cool spot and had a fabulous black bean veggie burger (and in known for their regular burgers).
JECKYLL ISLAND. Back to 2023. I came here to see the place that led to the creation in 1913 of the Federal Reserve System. The framework was hammered out on the island in 1910 by six bankers who came to the island in secrecy dressed as duck hunters to blend in at the behest of Senator Aldrich. The secret meetings remained so until the signing of the Banking Act of 1933. But, there is not much on the island about this – what it does have is driftwood beach which is worth the $8 fee to drive onto the island – some pics below. There is also a campground but the spaces were so very close together (parking space like) that I opted to move on.
TALLULAH FALLS / CLAYTON. My spirits are returning here at my little lodge, The Cascades Inn, on the river. The room itself is not great – think first post college apartment – but the view out my room is fabulous and it is under $100 per night. I am definitely in red country which they let you know at The Rusty Bike Cafe where I stopped in for what turned out to be a really good breakfast. Not many tourists right now given the nighttime temp when I arrived was mid 20s which was perfect for an uncrowded hike at Tallulah Gorge State Park. Wow this place is beautiful and the trees don’t even have their leaves. Lots and lots of stairs – definitely got in my workout. The gorge is one that Karl Wallenda crossed in 1970 on a tightrope at age 65 and did two headstands along the way. 1,000 feet across and 750 feet high.
TACCOA. I drove through here on my way into South Carolina. One of the many cute towns I have seen on my travels that might be fun to explore. This was my exit point into South Carolina.