April 2023
Maryland was relaxing and there was a comfort level here I did not find in Virginia. The general energy just felt calmer and people were definitely friendlier and more willing to engage in conversation. I started my journey in Solomons, just across the bridge from the hometown area of my friend Carolyn, staying there because I was too tired to drive further after a long unsuccessful day of trying to land a campsite in Virginia. After a good night’s rest, I went in search of coffee and found myself at St. Inie’s in Lexington Park, where I found a fantastic cup of coffee and an armful of used books to buy. Here, I met Louis, a local professor at the college who invited me to lunch at the campus cafeteria which turned into my staying in a guest room at his home in Hollywood (the third in my journeys) for a couple of nights. Louis introduced me to Megalodon fossil hunting (I did not find any but did find some Skate plate and other shark teeth fossils), the names of the various military planes flying overhead from the nearby military flight school, and a tasty Indian restaurant, Bollywood Masala. I introduced him to how to jazz up eggs with leftover Indian food and most importantly, a method of removing nail polish and other stains from a mosaic tile floor which I scrubbed clean with some toxic chemicals and a lot of elbow grease. I finally agreed to put an end to my compulsive deep cleaning to watch the lightning storm while hoping my car would not be thrashed by the predicted hail and wind. Next stop was DC to tour a few museums before venturing south down another one of the Maryland peninsulas to look at birds and then the Atlantic Ocean where I got to see wild ponies at sunset.
SOLOMONS. My first spot was in Solomons mostly because I found a not too expensive Hilton Garden Inn (undergoing major renovations which explained the lower price tag) and it was late and I was hungry. There was not much around but in the parking lot was the Ruddy Duck Brewery & Grill which had a surprisingly good Mediterranean plate and lots of beer options. One place to go if you are here is the Calvert Marine Museum. Interesting fossils and reconstructed marine life, sailing and boating history, an 18th century lighthouse, cute little live otters, stingrays and jellyfish, history, etc.
LEXINGTON PARK. The must do in Lexington Park is head to St. Inie’s coffee shop / book store. The coffee is amazing (reasonably priced pour overs), everyone is so nice from the staff to the patrons, and they have an amazing used book collection at unbelievable prices. I bought an armful and donated one so I am set for many months of reading – turns out the books also help level out the mattress in my car and make up for my Forester seats not folding entirely flat. The patrons are so friendly one of them ended up hosting me for a couple of nights. Okay, I am sure that is not the normal course there but did lead to a better stay than I would otherwise have had.
ST. MARY’S COLLEGE / ST. MARY’S CITY. I went here to meet Louis (whom I met that morning at St. Inis) for lunch. St. Mary’s City is considered to be the birthplace of religious freedom in the U.S., is the oldest city in Maryland, and the fourth oldest permanent English settlement in the country. The college is bordered by the river and the historic sites and is one of few public honors colleges in the nation, modeled on private elite liberal arts colleges but with public funding. It is also near a state park on the water in Saint Inigoes.
CALVERT CLIFFS. Would not have known to go here had I not met Louis. We made the 2 mile stroll to the cliffs where we sifted through the sand for fossils. The walk is quite lovely and there were a whole lot of turtles – it was turtleville. Apparently that is not the norm so lucky for us.
BLACKWATER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE / HARRIET TUBMAN UNDERGROUND RAILROAD. The wildlife refuge was nice but not many birds – maybe I was off season. I tried to go to the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Historic Park after but it closes at 4pm (right when I arrived) – including the parking lot so I was not able to wander around the grounds after hours as I usually do. Should have done the two in reverse but was not expecting a 4pm closing time.
OCEAN CITY / ASSATEAGUE ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE. The town itself reminded me of Fisherman’s Wharf but with a nice beach. I did find a good dinner spot, Shotti’s Point. Friendly bartenders and good ahi tacos. The highlight here is the national seashore – lovely and filled with wild ponies. Tried to camp but all the drive in spots were taken and I was not up to carrying in and setting up a tent.
