March 2023 (with a bit of November 2018 thrown in)
I first went to Tennessee in October 2018 to visit Nashville. It was a short weekend trip with my sister and her then boyfriend, and although it was fun, I did not have a burning desire to return. My 2023 travels would be not much lengthier though cover way more ground, starting in Memphis and then east across the southern portion of the State along its byways. This included a drive along the Trail of Tears (which I have also been on and off in other states) and I could not but help think that as I drove along on this wintery day in the comfort of my car passing McDonalds, high schools, churches and Targets, others were forced to walk burdened, unshielded from the cold, being driven off their land and often to their death. Tennessee as with other southern states has a lot of trees (unfortunately leafless this winter) and a mixture of large newer homes and older barely standing homes, and of course the occasional confederate flag. Towns are also spread out so you can go miles without seeing a store or restaurant. The drive along SR 100 is beautiful and something I wish I had done in the spring. You will find good food, beer and coffee across Tennessee.
NASHVILLE. Now one of the top bachelorette party destinations, this is a lively city. I was here pre-pandemic with my sister and her then boyfriend but understand the party atmosphere remains. Expect to find good food, lots of breweries, and great music. The architecture is pretty stellar as well. On my original trip, we went to the Grand Ole Opry which I highly recommend, though book before last minute so you are not in the very back of the house, the Country Music Hall of Fame and of course lower Broadway. I passed on visiting again as the hotel prices are outside my budget and it was just too darn cold. Plus Nashville is somewhere best enjoyed with others, not as a solo traveler. May have been worth it though to try again to get into Bluebird which we were unable to do on our visit.
MEMPHIS. After a short nighttime drive through in early March 2023, having reached the north of Mississippi, I returned the next day for a more complete experience. I walked Beale Street (which in the late morning is sort of like walking Bourbon Street in New Orleans – not the most active time), strolled around downtown, walked to the waterfront and tried out some well brewed coffee. I unfortunately was not hungry so skipped the bbq which they are famous for. I did not find anything particularly noteworthy; I think it is more of a nightlife town.
MERIWETHER LEWIS CAMPGROUND. This is one of the three free, primitive, first come first serve NPS campgrounds, and the only one located in Tennessee. I was able to land a spot, probably because it was cold and raining with lightning and thunderstorms predicted throughout the night. The campground has great views and the spots spread out. It also has sinks and flush toilets which were clean and tidy. Definitely recommend this as a stop if you can find a spot. I would have stayed a second night, but the daytime high was going to be in the 40s so thought it best to head south through Alabama to warmer weather.
I intended to return to Tennessee to see Knoxville and hike in the Smokey Mountains but upon reaching Asheville, was burned out on driving and more importantly, learned that while there were black bears on the North Carolina side, there were a lot of black bears on the Tennessee side and they were just coming out of hibernation. My fear won out over curiosity so my trip in the Smokey Mountains terminated in the Carolinas.